Difference between two vintages of Abercrombie

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Readers would have noted that I often give a mark to a wine with an added written description saying I think there are more points to come. My reasoning is that I can only judge what is before me. How that wine will present in two, five or 10 years involves many factors. I can only assume it will have been kept in the right conditions and speculate how it might show at a point in the future.

On the release of its Howard Park ‘Abercrombie’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Western Australia-based Burch Family Wines sent a bottle of the 2010, which I had given 95 points at the time of tasting, in 2013. It is very good to get an older example of the wine under review rather than look at past notes. It can’t be done for every wine and I’m not asking for other producers to do the same, but I did appreciate it for this very special wine.

Howard Park ‘Abercrombie’ Western Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2010: A 97:3 blend of two regions Great Southern (Dennis Vineyard) and Margaret River (Leston Vineyard). I gave it 95 points in 2013 and I’m not prepared to increase this rating yet. There is a change on the nose; it’s starting to show some signs of age, with a slight dusty (good) edge taking space from fruit dominance, but the core is still youthful exuberance, so there’s time to go, and anyone who has a case in the cellar is lucky indeed.

Howard Park ‘Abercrombie’ Western Australia Cabernet Sauvignon 2013: A 81:19 blend of two regions Great Southern pair one(Dennis Vineyard) and Margaret River (Leston Vineyard). As would be expected, black fruits dominate the nose, with a hint of oak/cedar in the background. It sits firm and pert at the front of the palate, somewhat nervously as if deciding its impending journey. It transverses the palate in tight formation, but every now and then the flavour bursts through, overriding the tannin and acid. An easy 95 now but there are more points to come. It’s a quality wine in every aspect.

Price wise, $125 may seem expensive, but this is a wine that represents the very best of Australian viticulture and vinification. In global terms it is cheap.

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