Family producers show their wares

Keep it in the family

Two families: one based in the Adelaide Hills the other in the Mornington Peninsula. Both make good wine, and importantly care deeply for the land under their care. Need more be said?

Paradigm Hill Mornington Peninsula Riesling 2016: Light on the nose but clean. A couple of questions come to mind: would I buy this wine for drinking in 2017? No is the answer; it’s high in acid and any flavour it has remains hidden. Would I buy it for drinking in 2018 and beyond? Yes is the answer; there are hints, a glimpse here and there, showing what is to come. A mean 91 points now but more will come. It’s a high price at $39.

Paradigm Hill ‘Transition’ Mornington Peninsula Rosé 2016: This is made from shiraz, and the nose is wonderful. It’s may be a strange description, but it is uplifting, and made me take note instantly. Why bother with fruit, vegie or herbs and spices when the nose simply brings forth: wow. Very tasty across the palate, nipping about like a terrier at a set of heels. A lovely sour edge brings it to a smart finish. 94 points and a top-end price but worth its $39.

Paradigm Hill ‘L’ami Sage’ Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015: Good PN nose: bit of earth, bit of fruit, bit of feral, with a pinch of this, that and the other. It’s a light style of pinot. Being picky, perhaps a little more weight wouldn’t go amiss, but it’s true to the house style, and though light, has gorgeous flavours that play and dance across the palate, delighting whenever they caress a pleasure point. The return is a little short, but overall it’s a wonderful wine. 94 points, but the price is high at $72.

Paradigm Hill ‘Les Cinq’ Mornington Peninsula Pinot Noir 2015: Earthy, mouldy leaf, stinky nose that can only indicate good pinot noir. Drinking very well now, but lacking in fruit. I thought it could be going through a dull period, but putting the fruit aside, it’s damn good pinot, doing what pinot does best: delighting and confusing at the same time. 95 points and within PN bounds at $85.

Paradigm Hill ‘Col’s Block’ Mornington Peninsula Shiraz 2014: It quite surprised me on the nose, as I thought cherry to begin with, and cherry is not a shiraz nose. Putting it aside, on return it was showing darker, earthy notes. It’s a tricky number as it’s light on entry, and starts its journey with no fuss or fireworks, but comes alive mid-palate, never heavy, but with a multitude of flavours fighting each other for space. It’s rather delightful. 94 points and a high price at $49.

Tomich Woodside Park Adelaide Hills Chardonnay/Pinot Noir NV: This is an attractive salmon colour, and on the nose shows all the delight one should expect from a sparkling wine: hints of bread/yeast with light fruit character coming through. The pinot comes through on the palate, giving some punch to the wine. It’s very attractive and I’ve tasted less quality at almost twice the price, which makes it outstanding value at $20. If there is a drawback it’s the shortness of the wine; great going across the palate but little on the return. What the hell, 92 points.

Tomich ‘Winemakers Reserve’ Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Banc 2016: Defined sauvignon blanc nose, and the expected cut grass, clear-cut SB flavours in the mouth. Well made and variety defined. 93 points but pricey, I think, at $28.

Tomich ‘Single Vineyard’ Adelaide Hills Sauvignon Blanc 2016: All it should be and at an acceptable price. Can’t ask for much more, really. 93 points and $25.

Tomich Adelaide Hills Pinot Grigio 2016: Very attractive ripe pear nose. Texturally rich, with flavours leaning towards the opulent. It’s a full style PG, but not over the top. 94 points and worth $25.

Tomich ‘Winemakers Reserve’ Adelaide Hills Chardonnay 2016: Attractive green/gold and a clearly defined chardonnay nose. Crisp on the palate and a touch unbalanced, but that is its youth. There is smooth quality below the youthful bumps; it should be showing much better by Christmas. 93 points now with one or two more to come. An OK price at $39.

Tomich ‘Woodside Park’ McLaren Vale Shiraz 2015: Deep garnet centre leading to a pink rim. A nose of ripe plum. The wine spreads to all parts of the mouth, giving delight all the way. Sound, enjoyable McLaren Vale shiraz. 93 points and good value at $20.

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